anchoring

Post here if you want to discuss a topic specific to the PDQ Capella.
Post Reply
Bob
admiral
admiral
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 6:20 pm
Location: Rockland, ME

anchoring

Post by Bob »

In one of the past newsletters Colin Swithenbank of Cadenza wrote an article about anchor rode tensions and concluded that 5/16" proof chain was adequate for a 36. Has anyone gone this route? My present arrangement is 5/8" nylon with 30' of 5/16" but I don't know if it is proof or HT and the darn nylon keeps binding coming up. The manual infers that 1/2" rode was what it was built for so I am thinking of changing to all chain.
Bob Johnson
Hull 36045
Peace
Allezcat
admiral
admiral
Posts: 272
Joined: Fri May 07, 2004 9:29 pm
Location: Punta Gorda, Fl 33955

Post by Allezcat »

Hi Bob,
I think you need to check the manual for your windlass and see what size chain and rope the gypsy is designed for. My Sprint 1000 uses 5/16 chain and 9/16 rope. I personally use a 35# Delta, 100ft of 5/16 Hi-tensile chain, and 100 ft of 9/16" rope. Normally the chain is all I need and I use a 1/2" rope bridle with a SS chain hook, 20ft legs, spliced loop ends, and plastic tubing for chafe at the chocks. I'm sure there are a myriad of other combinations PDQers use with equal confidence and success.
I also carry a Fortress 23 with 15ft 5/16 HT chain and 250 ft of 1/2" rope and a 35#CQR with 40ft of 3/8" chain and 200 ft of 5/8" rope(which I seldom use).
Chet
Allezcat 36010
Kokomo
admiral
admiral
Posts: 150
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 5:21 pm
Location: Cruising
Contact:

Anchor Chain

Post by Kokomo »

As Chet said, check the windless requirements. With that said, we would recommend at least 100' of chain if you will ever be in an area of heavy current. When wind vs. current, the PDQ will sail up over the anchor and, if you have line, it will get hung up on your rudder or keel. The weight of the chain will prevent this. We have a 44 lb. spade with 100" of chain for sandt conditions (like FL and the Bahamas) and 120' of chain on a Fortress FX-37 for most everywhere else on the East Coast. I would also recommend a swivel between the anchor and chain, but be careful on your selection because some brands/types have been known to jam and break.
Roger and Bonnie
Bob
admiral
admiral
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 6:20 pm
Location: Rockland, ME

Post by Bob »

I got first hand experience with currents and the boat sailing over it on our trip up the ICW this spring on our maiden voyage. The rode caught the keel and put us sideways. Our only recourse was to tie a couple of jugs to the rode and toss the whole mess over. We retrieved it with some effort and moved further out. I'm sure the folks on shore were really enjoying their sundowners that evening. All in all the trip was better than my maiden voyage in hull 36032. I have a couple of Fortress setups and now that I'm back in ME I am going to swap out the primary anchor and use one of these that just so happens to have 1/2" nylon/ 5/16" chain. Eventually I will go all chain for Southern cruising.
I'm still wondering weather anyone went with Cadenza's data and used 5/16" proof vs HT. Seems kinda wasteful to be throwing HT over the side when proof appears to be adequate for the job.
Bob Johnson
Hull 36045
Peace
Tanah-Keeta
admiral
admiral
Posts: 270
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 1:30 pm
Location: Washington, NC (34108)

Post by Tanah-Keeta »

I have a CQR 35 on Tanah-Keeta with 60 ft of 5/16 HT chain and 150 Ft of 9/16 rode. The backup is a 35 lb Delta with the same amount and type. chain and rode. Thus pretty much cured the wrapping of keels problem. Whenever I anchor in very deep..15 ft plus... I attach a kellet (sentinel) which is a 15 lb musroom anchor to the rode and let it ride down to the bottom before tying it off. In the Bahamas, I usually anchor in 6 ft or less so this works well. Longer chain than this puts more weight in the bows than I want.
Ron McDaniel
TK III 34108
next exit
skipper
skipper
Posts: 98
Joined: Sun May 16, 2004 6:36 am
Location: NE on the hard in Titusville

Post by next exit »

WRT using HT or proof coil, read your windlass manual carefully.
Don Wilson
Next Exit
36028
Marc Gershel
admiral
admiral
Posts: 204
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 1:58 am
Location: Philadelphia.Pa 36021

Post by Marc Gershel »

TANAH-KEETA
Your idea of using a 15lb mushroom as a kellet is very interesting. How far from your CQR is it? Is it tied to the rode, or is it lowered after the anchor is set with a snatch block and a seperate line?
Marc
Tanah-Keeta
admiral
admiral
Posts: 270
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 1:30 pm
Location: Washington, NC (34108)

Post by Tanah-Keeta »

I attach it to the anchor line after anchoring but before I rig the bridle. I use a SS carbiner hook to attach it to the line and have a line attached to the eye of the anchor so I can lower it to the correct position depending on the depth. I tie this line just below the furler. I generally try to set it at just a little more than the expected depth considering max tide. If you are in a strong current, the kellet will lift with the anchor rode as the boat flows backward but will keep the rode on the bottom when the tide switches. I use a 15 lb mushroom anchor but, a 20 might be better... if you can lift it out. It is not perfect, especially in current vs wind situations but I have not wrapped the keels since I started using it. I do have 60 ft of chain which helps also.
Ron McDaniel
TK III 34108
Tex Hill
deckhand
deckhand
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2005 7:28 am
Location: Pensacola, FL

Post by Tex Hill »

The advice to check your windlass is right. The gypsy usually works with only one size of chain. In my case it is 5/16 BBB.
I have been using 100 ft of chain and 200 ft of 9/16 rode with a bridle and a devils claw. I am increasing my chain to 200' so that I can anchor on all chain since my gyspy works better with chain than nylon rode.
Post Reply