Cutlass Bearing Replacement

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Allezcat
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Cutlass Bearing Replacement

Post by Allezcat »

I am having props replaced on hull 96 and want to change the cutlass bearings at the same time. Does anyone have the specs on sizing and how does one remove them without pulling the shafts? I have noticed at the higher RPM's (3000), the aft part shaft "whips" around causing the tides marine seal to also "whip". This can't be good for the seal life and I'm hoping the bearing change will correct it.

Chet
Allezcat II / MV34 096
Tanah-Keeta
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Replacement

Post by Tanah-Keeta »

Hi Chet,
I was present when Roger on Teamwork replaced his cutlass bearing. The prop must be removed... not the shaft. His bearing was very worn and he hoped replacing the bearing and Tide Seal would stop the seal leak. I think he said it was some better but it still leaked too much. Hope your new props do the job.
Ron McDaniel
TK III 34108
duetto
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Replacement

Post by duetto »

hi chet,

i replaced ours 2 years ago. i believe they are a size called "BITE", but not sure. all our pdq info is on boat in fl. roger can probably tell you.

i did it with the shaft in place. as ron said, first pull the props and any line cutters. then remove the 2 or 3 allen screws or bolts which pin the stern tube and cutlass bearing together. i would support shaft inside boat and remove tides marine bellows from the stern tube. next depends on whether your boat has been "modified". i know of 2 pdq's (teamwork is one) which had some or all of the aft 1/4" of the stern tubes cut off. this allows you to grab the cutlass bearings with a pair of channel locks and then twist & pull it out. if your boat hasn't been modified you have 2 choices: 1) modify your boat 2) use the allen boat holes to use prick punch to tap bearing back enough to get pliers on it.

if you choose #1 you can either hacksaw stern tube all the way way around or take a dremel tool and cut 2 u-shaped sections out of tube to allow pliers to grip.

once the bearing is out, just cleanup the stern tube and push the new one in.

finally, i would recommend drilling the stern so you can drill & tap the bearing to accept bolts (1/4" x 20?).

i think that's about it. good luck and fire away with anymore questions,
john & diane cummings
duetto mv34 #23
Allezcat
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Replacement

Post by Allezcat »

Thanks Ron & John, Just the info I need. Will let you know how this turns out.

Chet
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DickTuschick
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Replacement

Post by DickTuschick »

Hi Chet,
DUETTO's advice is right on.
The "whipping" you notice is most likely caused by one (or a combination) of three things: 1. Bad engine alignment, 2. a bent shaft, 3. a worn cutlass bearing.
The most likely is an alignment problem. We have encountered this on so many boats and it eventually leads to wear on the cutlass bearing and the Tides seal.
The least likely is the bent shaft.
Getting a good engine alignment is technically not difficult, but it is a bit of an art and not easy to find someone that is good at it.
It takes patience and in the small area behind our engines a big person has difficulty. I fit fine but anyone larger than my build has more difficulty.
If you have any questions on any part of the running gear, all that equipment was supplied to PDQ by H&H propellor in Salem MA. They are great people to work with and they will bend over backwards to get you any parts you need.
Safe cruising.
Ortolan
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Replacement

Post by Ortolan »

Finding my port Tides seal beginning to leak & with the shaft visibly whipping at high speeds, I thought I’d make an attempt at checking the engine alignment. As I carefully disconnected the flexible shaft coupling, I was surprised when the shaft dropped down onto the bilge floor like a lead weight - I assumed the cutlass bearing (even though only 5” long/2’ away) would somewhat support the shaft? In any event, likely being the originals, I plan on replacing the cutlass bearings this summer before attempting engine alignments.

This posting is very helpful - the replacement seems fairly straightforward.

- Could someone please confirm the replacement is the Johnson #BITE size?

- Does anyone know the style of prop puller which works best on the PDQ with 4-bladed props? I’m leaning towards buying one & doing it all myself as when I paid a yard 3 years ago to pull the props, it was terrifying! 2 guys spent an hour with 2 different styles of pullers, sledgehammers, a torch & then eventually let both props drop 4’ down onto the concrete!

I will also replace the Tide seals as I have no idea how old they are. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Russ
Twin Sisters
PRIOR Owners of a 2006 MV34
www.esc-pod.com
DickTuschick
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Replacement

Post by DickTuschick »

As an update to previous posts.....
Even with a good cutlass bearing in place, when you detach the shaft coupling from the flexible coupling it will drop a couple of inches due to the long run from the cutlass bearing and the weight of the shaft and coupling. This condition make accurate alignment very difficult as you have to guess where the center point really is.
Several years ago Stuart Yacht came up with a simple solution which was to take 1/2 of a cutlass bearing and glue it into the front end of the shaft tube. This holds the shaft in perfect center and makes alignment much easier and more precise.
I did this on Heron about 5 years ago and have not had any issues since.
Hope this helps the fleet.
Allezcat
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Re: Cutlass Bearing Replacement

Post by Allezcat »

Having sold my 2006 PDQ a year ago, I am writing this from memory (scary I Know!)
Regarding cutlass bearings;
BITE is the cutlass bearing I used. I also cut the aft end of the fiberglass tube holding the bearing about 3/8" after removal so in the future I could get a grip on the cutlass to remove it without having to drive it out from inside the boat. Mine were a BEAR to get out!
Regarding seals;
The Tides seals caused a groove in my driveshafts where the lip seal rides on the shaft. I was able to reposition the new seal to ride on a different area of the shaft by sliding the bellows slightly forward before clamping it. Eventually, I was planning to replace the Tides with PYI/pss seals to alleviate this problem. BTW, James is an expert on all this as is Dick T.
As I recall, I was able to slide the shaft aft far enough to remove the old seals and slide on the new ones ( while on the lift ) by turning the rudders.
Hope this helps and my best to all the PDQers
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