Water Filter

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Soulstice
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Water Filter

Postby Soulstice » Fri May 05, 2017 12:05 pm

Hi All

We are looking to install an inline water filter (5 micron carbon filter) and wonder if anyone has experience with this. If you have experience with this did you do a full boat system or just one for the galley tap? Any input would be appreciated - challenges, product used etc!

thank you in advance
lesli
m/v Soulstice hull # 76
Soulstice 2005 PDQ 34 MV - Hull 076

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AMCarter3
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Re: Water Filter

Postby AMCarter3 » Fri May 05, 2017 8:31 pm

Our boat has a WaterGuard water filter by Shurflo -- model RV-10VIH-A (Bypass model). It's mounted inside the cabinet under the refrigerator and it filters all of the water in the boat. It has a valve that allows water to bypass the filter if desired. It takes a 10" SHURflo 15500243 Replacement Filter Cartridge or comparable). We change the filter once a year. I think it works well -- we've not had any issues with it. It's a common device in RV's.
Mac Carter
2006 34' PDQ PowerCat "All Heart"; MV 98
Bellingham WA

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thinwater
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Re: Water Filter

Postby thinwater » Sat May 06, 2017 11:56 am

I've published multiple articles on the topic, mostly in Practical Sailor. However, a condensed version is below, and a detailed explanation is provided in "Keeping a Cruising Boat on Peanuts."

http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2014/06/drinking-water-filtration-short-version.html
http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-book-store.html

The real question is what are you trying to accomplish and what should each step do.
1. Keep solids out of the tank. Every marina piping system an hose sheds algae and scale. If you don't keep this out of the tank, stuff will grow in the sludge, and the chlorine won't be able to reach it. Cleanliness is the first rule of higene.
2. Chlorinate. There is no better way to kill most bugs and eliminate skunky taste (it is the sulfate turning to sulfide, and bleach reverses this reaction).
3. Screen the vent. Bugs will crawl in.
4. Filter cysts. Chlorine won't kill them. You need and NSF 53 rated filter.

5 micron really is not very good. You need a 0.5micron carbon block, which is basically the same price anyway.

Filters Fast is probably the best choice. I like the Pentek Flow Plus 10, but there are other good models.

The advantage of this approach is that you are NOT bound to one brand that may change. These are industry-standard parts and are available world-wide in hardware stores. The only problem with the Shurflow line is that they have good marketing and charge 3-5 times more than Filters Fast. For example:

Housing for $9: https://www.filtersfast.com/Pentek-158005-Filter-Housing.asp
0.5 micron filter for $16: https://www.filtersfast.com/P-Pentek-FloPlus-10-Carbon-Block-Water-Filter.asp

This filter will catch all cysts and practically all bacteria.

I just filter the cold water, primarily because I didn't want to risk reducing flow through the instant hot water heater. But there is little reduction.

teamwork
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Re: Water Filter

Postby teamwork » Wed May 10, 2017 9:37 am

Hi Lesli, I filter all water that comes aboard, I bought a whole house filter from Lowe's. I use the charcoal filter. Since starting to do that, I haven't had any water pump problems. about 4 years now. [I'm knocking on wood]. I removed fire extinguisher to give under counter access, then installed a .05 micron in line filter, and a spigot similar to an instant hot for my potable water. This has worked very well for me. Roger on Teamwork

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Re: Water Filter

Postby AMCarter3 » Wed May 10, 2017 10:12 am

Some questions about keeping the boat's water clean...

• Do you chlorinate annually?
• I assume you use household bleach, right?
• Do you run a full or partial chlorinated tank through the lines?
• Quantity of bleach per tank?
• Do you routinely add a small amount of bleach to every tank? How much? (a cup?) Or do you avoid adding bleach on regular basis and rely on a charcoal filter?
Mac Carter
2006 34' PDQ PowerCat "All Heart"; MV 98
Bellingham WA

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thinwater
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Re: Water Filter

Postby thinwater » Wed May 10, 2017 8:57 pm

[From an article in Practical Sailor--Subscribe!!]
https://www.practical-sailor.com/

--------

The RV code (ANSI A119.2 section 10.8) has a standard procedure that is oft quoted and works very well. We’ve added a few details, but the bones of it come straight from the code and have been reviewed and accepted by the US Public Health Service. This is typically done annually, or when the boat has been unused for several months. This is based on household bleach.

1. Turn off the hot water heater until finished.
2. Remove any carbon canisters or micron rated filters. Remove any faucet aerator screens. Wire mesh pump protection strainers should stay in place. The plumbing will very likely slough off a layer of bacteria during later flushing steps.
3. Clean and remove the vent screen and flush the vent hose.
4. Use the following methods to determine the amount of common household bleach needed to sanitize the tank.
1. A) Multiply “gallons of tank capacity” by 0.13; the result is the ounces of bleach needed to sanitize
the tank. This is 1/8 cup of plain bleach (no fragrance) per 10 gallons.
1. B) Multiply “Liters of tank capacity” by 1.0; the result is the milliliters of bleach needed to sanitize the
tank.
5. Mix the proper amount of bleach within a 1-gallon container of water. This will provide better mixing and reduce spot corrosion of aluminum tanks.
6. Pour the solution (water/bleach) into the tank and fill the tank with potable water.
7. Allow some solution to escape though the vent, if safe and applicable (some boats use the vent as an over flow, while in some cases the vent is in the interior). This will sanitize the vent line.
8. Open ALL faucets (hot and cold) allowing the water to run until all air is purged and the distinct odor of chlorine is detected. Leave the pressure pump on.
9. The standard solution must have four (4) hours of contact time to disinfect completely. Doubling the solution concentration allows for contact time of one (1) hour.
10. When the contact time is completed, drain the tank. Refill with potable water and purge the plumbing of all sanitizing solution. Repeat until bleach is no longer detectable.
11. If the smell of bleach persists after two refill and drain cycles, add a teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide per 20 gallons and mix. The peroxide will oxidize the hypochlorite to chloride (salt) and oxygen, neutralizing the bleach. Any excess peroxide will be harmless to drink and will have no taste. Peroxides are common ingredients in commercially available water freshening preparations. Others suggest vinegar, but vinegar at long dilutions can ferment, undoing all of your hard work.
12. Replace all filters and the vent screen.

-------

About 10x less bleach is used for routine treatment, and normally is not needed all if the source water is chlorinated. If you are chlorinating, use either bleach or Aqua Mega tabs (better for aluminum tanks), and test the water with aquarium or pool test tapes (~ 0.5 ppm residual after 1 hour).

Really, you want to use a particle filter during filling, not carbon--you DON'T want to remove the just chlorine yet. Just a 1-5 micron filter to keep the dirt out. Better yet, use a Baja water filter:

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_52/features/A-DIY-Water-Filter_11660-1.html
Image

A granulated carbon filter will do NOTHING to remove microorganisms. This is a myth. In fact, they usually grow them. It will only remove chlorine, and perhaps traces of a few more things, depending on additives and doping. A carbon block filter with an NSF 53 rating--this is a vital and specific distinction--will actually remove gardia cysts etc. However, these do reduce the flow a little, and since they remove all of the chlorine, should only be used AFTER the pump.

Teamwork: Was that 0.5 micron carbon block, or something else? A 0.05 micron filter is not an easy thing to find. Just wondered if that might have been a typo. If not a typo, I would really love to know the specifics!!

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Re: Water Filter

Postby AMCarter3 » Thu May 11, 2017 12:44 am

Thanks... Very helpful.
Mac Carter
2006 34' PDQ PowerCat "All Heart"; MV 98
Bellingham WA

teamwork
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Re: Water Filter

Postby teamwork » Sat May 13, 2017 11:28 am

Retraction from teamwork. Biodegradable carbon block 1 micron from Water guard. West Marine discontinued these filters, so I bought all they had.
Sorry was using my memory, had to dig out a filter. Do you suggest not using Charcoal filter to fill tank? Roger on Teamwork

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Re: Water Filter

Postby jackdawson » Fri Aug 18, 2017 3:26 am

Many people enjoy the convenience and taste of bottled water, but it can get expensive. By reusing a few water bottles or getting some nicer thermos type bottles you can fill them up from your water purifiers/filters at home for pennies. Kids and adults will love the cool variety of water bottles available and everyone in the family can have their own.

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Re: Water Filter

Postby AMCarter3 » Fri Aug 18, 2017 1:21 pm

Another option... we have "whole house" carbon water filter that filters out chlorine. We live close to the water intake pipe in our local (big, natural, deep) lake... it is the water source for our entire county. This water is chlorinated at the water pump/plant just down the street from us. As a result, our unfiltered house water is a bit over-chlorinated. So, since we do not like drinking or using chlorinated water for bathing or washing, we fill up a bunch of 2 gal plastic water containers at our house for our boat trips. This provides clean, NON-cholinated drinking water. We use the boat water that we get at our marina for cooking, washing, flushing, etc.
Mac Carter
2006 34' PDQ PowerCat "All Heart"; MV 98
Bellingham WA


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