PDQ OWNERS FORUM

I have the original 1995 Yamaha 9.9s on Phenix, in Chicago. I am considering replacing them with new, maybe after this year. What do you all think is the best source for 2 new engines? Locally? Mail order? I would have my mechanic install them.

Also, is there any market for these 1995 engines? They have been used only in fresh water, and have been well maintained.

This should cover the buying:
http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2012/ ... gines.html

As for value, if they are running, this forum may be your best hope, but it won't be very much. Something if they are running well, little to nothing if they are not. The assumption is always that they are giving trouble, after 20 years.

Far and away, best service and price, call Andy Jr at Shipyard Island Marina, 800-213-3323

Tell him they are going on a PDQ and that you heard about him on the PDQ Forum. He will even change wire harnesses for you, ready to drop in.

Sam

I spoke to Andy today. We had an interesting conversation about the remote versions vs. the tiller versions. Apparently, the remove versions come only with the power tilt mechanism, so if you want the manual tilt, you need to get the tiller version, (model: T9.9XEHB) and have them remove the tiller and fit it for remote. The only downside of this is that the choke is also manual, and is on the engine. So cold starts might also require the use of the manual choke. Not a deal breaker, as it might be good to have that compartment open anyway, to make sure there is water discharge from the engine. The price of the engine is about $2750 each and by the time you add the wiring harness and shipping, it is probably at about $3000 each.

That's a lot to replace two engines that are "not too bad". Thinking on it.

That is exactly what we did, had him make the mods, we are very happy, choke is no issue.

One more note, can you give me pointers on how to update the forum SW to the new version? sdensler@mac.com is best.

Sam

Exactly. I like that it makes me open the cover. I also think I like it better for cold weather starts. I like that it is lighter.

I didn't bother with old string latch release. I did cut away some of the shelf to improve access. A report is in my blog.

A drop-in. My daughter and I swapped both by lunch.

I used Andy Jr in December, I would recommend Andy for great service. If there was access to 2 stroke a 15 may fit.Brian MIDORI 32032

Drew, I saw in your blog (http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2012/ ... gines.html) that you trimmed the wood shelf. Do you know how much to trim it? The picture shows it up to a ridge, but I do not have that ridge on my shelf.

Also, I have only ordered one new engine, not two. My budget can't justify one when the other is running perfectly. Do you have any cautions as far as putting in only one engine, specifically related to the way they charge batteries differently?

In my setup, I have a house battery (#1) and a start battery (#2). I set the the battery switch as follows:

#2 - just before I start engines
#1 - when the engines are off and I am sailing or at anchor
BOTH - when charging from shore power

Thanks.

Did same with Andy..NOTE....check if your remote handle assembly and motor being replaced uses a "pull" or "push" for the cable to change gear. Not a big change, but a royal pain if you are trying to figure out why the cable won't work and you don't know which the old motor used and how the new motor needs to be set up.

Trim. About 4 inches.

Charging. Leave ALL barreries at alltimes. Why not? If they are really flat, whic should never happen, pull-start.

Push-pull. The details are in the blog link.

I recomend changing the cables while younare at it. Get coupling nuts tompullmthem through. PM me and I'll send you one.

Drew,
Can you explain the use of the coupling nuts?

Sam

I think the coupling nuts that Drew referenced are to use the old cable to pull the new cable through. A great idea but I've never needed them. I use either a fish tape or the original cable taped to the new cable. You could also just push the new cables in place too. On the 32 the only tough part is making the bend for the port engine, coming down from the binnacle turning to the port side running through the small tunnel across the cockpit.

I believe the 36's have more access points to feed the cables through.

Ah, yes, thanks. I thought he had some way to help deal with the chafing.

Thanks,
Sam

thinwater wrote:Trim. About 4 inches.

Charging. Leave ALL barreries at alltimes. Why not? If they are really flat, whic should never happen, pull-start.

Push-pull. The details are in the blog link.

I recomend changing the cables while younare at it. Get coupling nuts tompullmthem through. PM me and I'll send you one.

Thanks Drew. I actually ended up NOT ordering the engine. I'm gonna get through this year with what I have, and if I get new engine(s), I'll do it in the spring when the boat is on the hard.

Lady of the Lake wrote:Ah, yes, thanks. I thought he had some way to help deal with the chafing.

Thanks,
Sam

I end up replacing my cables every few years, because of the raising and lowering of them so often. Most times, I have replaced them, I've used the coupling nut mentioned in Drew's blog - http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2013/ ... ables.html ... still have to be careful to not damage the cable.

But this last time, while everything was open there, I thought of a better solution for me. I jammed in 4 lengths of PVC pipe to act as a conduit for this and future cable runs. It is 1/2 inch PVC from Home Depot. Each length is cut to be 35.25 to 35.5 inches (35.35 is perfect) and I jammed them down into the area with a hammer. Now, the 4 cables run easily in the conduit. The conduit basically shields the cable from being pinched in that tight area. It works for me.