Anchor chain hook suggestions

[billp]

I'm sure there has been a lot of ground tackle discussion, so excuse me if this has been covered a lot before.

Any suggestions from experience about the chain hook versus rolling hitch options: Ultra chain grab, Wichard chain hook, etc.

I'm looking for something my wife can use as well, and knots are not her specialty.
Thanks for any comments.
BillP

[Tanah-Keeta]

I have 60 ft of chain and use it all every time I anchor. The rolling hitch in the first 5-10 ft if line works fine for me. I do the anchoring while my wife drives the boat. The rolling hitch is really a simple knot but I have to re-educate myself each year on the way to the Bahamas. If you have all chain, I am told that the knot works well with chain also... but I would think that some of the mechanical solutions you mention would be simpler.

[Page 83]

I've played with a number of chain hooks and knots in the past. I think the simplest and best is the pricey Wichard, with enough 1/2" three stand nylon spliced on to reach accross the boat while tied to a cleat. once hooked I let enough chain out to place the hook on the extended centerline of the boat. This serves two purposes: It all but eliminates hunting at anchor and cushions the shock load as the boat stops at the end of the chain. I use a similar arrangement on 50% heavier Siesta but with 5/8" three strand. If you are going to be at anchor for more than a couple nights, you will need chafing gear. I'm still using old rubber hose.

For a rope rode, a proper knot is the only solution I've found. I'ld like to hear if anyone is using a kellet on a soft rode.

[SecondWind]

We used a 25' Bridle with a regular steel chain hook (cheap) tied to the center. The hook was fitted with along shackle which was closed to keep it from coming of of the chain (all chain rode). Once the bridle was attach to both cleats (port & starboard) the chain was let out until it hung free, where it acted as a kellet to keep the nylon bridle low. Of course all was done after the anchor was set. We did power down on the bridle to make sure it held. (The chain hook was replaced when it became to rusty.)

[thinwater]

I've become addicited to this custom-made plate:
http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2009/ ... arans.html
I wish there was a place to buy them that I could steer you to. There was a company making an inferior variation, but there simply arn't that many cats out there.

It allows you to hook up a proper bridle with proper chafe protection. It allows for a second anchor. It never comes off.

Attaching to a rope? A semi-knot that is simpler is a prusik knot in a sling. Spectra climber's slings work best. This also works on chain. Though a rolling hitch works well, this might be simpler.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prusik
Everyone should know this as the knot used to link two rubber bands, with an extra pass-through. Attach it to the bridle with a carabiner.

[Page 83]

I have two like that, Drew. There's no question they work, but they are a bit more fussy to rig. I think using the rode itself as one side of the bridle is simpler. I got the first from a multihuller in Deltaville who had several cut out of heavy mild steel, at a cost of $40 each. The second came with Siesta and I used it exclusively last year. I can only guess it was made in Australia.

I wonder if something could be made to work with a rope rode, using a clam cleat.

Thanks for another nice article in Practical Sailor. Can I bring my lines over and use YOUR washer??!?

[thinwater]

a. I never liked the idea of using the rode rather than a separate bridle. When hanging on rope (which I seldom do in the shallow Chesapeake) I worry about chafe on the rollers. When hanging on chain I worry about the chain rubbing on the rollers, the noise, and of course I would need a load-rated chain stopper. I prefer a separate bridle, though it is unquestionably more work. It is also habit, by now.

b. They do make cam-cleats for rope; they are called accenders and every climber has them. Some designs (not those used for halyard climbing but more like those used in caves) are mud and corrosion resistant. But try the prusik; it's very handy and can actually run over the rollers. One problem with climbing accenders (and cam cleats) is that they release if the rope is pulled too far off-line. Climbers have fallen and the accender could lever off the rode if not rigged carefully.

c. Nope, but I can tell you plenty about repairing washing machines ! The frayed bits are not good for pumps. I thought the most surprising lesson was that NEW docklines could be destroyed in 15 minutes by a washing machine, while old lines could generally endure hours.

And I now have 6 holding tanks (5-gallon buckets) in my back yard being filled with a wiches brew of sanitary waste, testing sanitation hoses and holding tank vent filters. The one I put on Shoal Survivor (http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2011/ ... ilter.html) is doing VERY well; no treatment chemicals and no stink at all. These tests will be running for at least a year.

[billp]

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone.

I like the "Ultimate Chain Hook" concept, thinwater, and may try to see what it would cost to make. I use 5/16th HT chain so will make sure it fits my application.

I always used a Prusik knot on my sailboat back in the 1980s, attaching it to the rode and short line with a beefy carabiner. It is almost idiot-proof, and I'd forgotten about it. In the years since I used a chain hook on our Downeast boat, and it worked fine. But a cat is a different story, and putting a long bridle out there in shallow water would cause it to unhook in no time.

I usually do the anchoring but want to make sure my wife can perform that function if necessary.
Again, thanks for the info, folks.

[Allezcat]

I just added two wraps of 3M RUBBER electical tape to my 316SS chain hook. It now no longer falls off the 5/16 ht chain. Not sure how long this fix will last but works great for now.

Chet
Allezcat II / MV34 096