PDQ OWNERS FORUM

Hi all:


My starboard engine is sputtering a bit and won't reach max rpm. I had a similar issue on the port side and fixed it with a carb cleaning.

It looks like carb removal is more difficult on this side and I wonder if removing the intake manifold is the best practice.

Any advice or experience is appreciated.

Dan Haun
TomKat

Not sure if your on a 32 or 36 but on my 32 I just remove the carb and leave the manifold in place. Try to have a spare nut handy when you re-install, bit of a PITA to not drop them.

32 might be easier than 36 as the 36 is quite a bit deeper to reach.

A neat trick if you have the old style lockers with the high sides...cut a piece of large diameter PVC pipe to the length of the front edge, then cut a straight line along the length of the pipe allowing it to slip over the edge of the locker. Makes it much more comfortable to lean on with your chest...a towel can work too but slides around.

Lady of the Lake wrote:A neat trick if you have the old style lockers with the high sides...cut a piece of large diameter PVC pipe to the length of the front edge, then cut a straight line along the length of the pipe allowing it to slip over the edge of the locker. Makes it much more comfortable to lean on with your chest...a towel can work too but slides around.

WOW!! What a great idea. Thanks for that.
As far as the 2 nuts that hold the carb on, I found that removing the oil seperator(very easy) allows easier access to nuts. I've dropped my share before this trick.
Marc

Thanks all for the tips. I will be waiting until I am dockside with auto access, in case I have to make a run the the hardware store for dropped parts.

Dan Haun

You can easily reach the rear flange nuts with a 1/4-inch ratchet with an extention; it's blind but easy. Nothing needs removed. However, hemostats are handy for getting the top nut off without dropping.

The throttle has a snap-offplastic conector, there are a few wires and a few hoses. It can be done in few minutes with practice. It is about having the RIGHT tools. Look at the port engine to memorize the locations.

[quote="thinwater"]You can easily reach the rear flange nuts with a 1/4-inch ratchet with an extention; it's blind but easy. Nothing needs removed. However, hemostats are handy for getting the top nut off without dropping. quote]

Getting the top nut back on is where I have a problem, hard to get my fingers in there, and start the thread. By removing 2 screws from the top of the oil seperator, it moves out of the way. Also makes it a little easier to squeeze that gas line in. Just something to make it a little easier.
Marc

That is where the hemostats come in. I use them both to grab the nut on the way off, to avoid dropping it, and to restart:
*Hold the nut by the edge in the correct possition over the stud.
* Place a finger tip on the end to hold it.
*Turn with other fingers. Not difficult, since it is already in the correct place, held by a finger tip.

I guess working on stuff for 40 years teaches you all the tricks. Starting the nut while holding it in your fingers is nearly impossibble.

Hi All:

Thanks for the advice. I pulled the carb and cleaned it without incident and it was easier than it looks. I still am not getting the wot rpms as the port engine but it looks to be related to linkage to the Morse controls as I can open the throttle on the carb. by hand to get the higher revolutions.

... another learning experience.


Thanks again for all of the tips.

Dan Haun

You should be able to adjust the throw right at the linkage attachment; there is no adjustment in the control head.