Motor mount removal /replacement cont.
Posted: Fri Nov 19, 2021 10:32 am
one other useful tool , a magnetic retrieving tool for when you drop a wrench under motor and you will.
First thing take a mirror and mini mag light look inside the stringer access hole. You should hopefully see the head of the 2 14mm bolts that hold the mounts in place. Here starts the challenge! Unlike fasteners that screw into stringers these are held in place by white 5200 and large washers. IF the 5200 lets go you lose your fastener into the stringer. Put some rags in there so if they drop they won't bounce off and disappear .They are stainless your magnetic tool won't help you here.
Clean up the area around your mounts and mark their original location with a marker.
Slacken and clean up your adjuster nuts. (PB blaster)
Crack the block fasteners, you'll want to split the arm from the mount later. The rear are held in the block with 2 17 mm bolts on each side. The front are held in place with 4 14mm on the water pump side and 6 and the fuel pump side (2 extra on fuel pump support bracket) (reverse ordination lift up to loosen)
Disconnect your drive and mark your coupler. If you have the I/2 bearing mod you may need to pull the nuts and bolts out of the split coupler to help clear the hull crossmember.
I did not need to disconnect the exhaust. You shouldn't need to lift the motor more than 3/4"when doing the rear. (TIP cut any long exhaust clamp bolts you might get snagged on. Every tiny bit of space helps.
Slacken the alternator and push inwards.(or remove).
CLEAN ALL s/s fasteners that hold your mounts in place!!!!!!! Mine were cruddy , rust, paint,crap. The threads need to be pristine . PB baster and a seal pick is what I started with ,that was taking forever (keep in mind you are holding your yoga position) . I switched up to paint remover and small wire bush and that did the trick. When your happy with the result use a nut to run up and down to test the thread won't bind just to be safe.
I was lucky and I hope you are to.
Take your air impact wrench with 14mm socket and whatever variety of extensions you need to spin that nut off without breaking the 5200 bond on the underside. IF YOU DIDN'T CLEAN YOUR THREAD THIS IS WERE YOU'D WISH YOU HAD. Be slow be careful, try not to disturb the fastener. When you pull the mount you will likely find a good amount of rust and crud that needs to be cleaned off (long handled scrapper, small wire brush etc.) The stringers are not particularly flat where to mounts go so a good amount shit gets under there over time. I put a smear of Lanocote on the underside of my mounts .
On reassembly I was able to retighten using the same method with the impact wrench without the need to hold the head on the underside.
If plan A does not work for you and the you will need to create some kind of one off tool to hold the fastener on the underside .The access hole is small ,tight and awkward, at best you will only have enough room to get on it.
Your new mounts should have an elongated slot this goes to the rear on all 4.
Use your port-a-power to support the engine ,on the rear I picked a spot on the trans just forward of the drive flange. On the front end I just slipped it under the edge of the sump best I could, just supported did not need to lift. Obviously just work on one at a time.
I sure hope this helps the next poor soul that takes this on. It's a dam good thing I love my boat!
Best of luck to you
Cheers Carl
First thing take a mirror and mini mag light look inside the stringer access hole. You should hopefully see the head of the 2 14mm bolts that hold the mounts in place. Here starts the challenge! Unlike fasteners that screw into stringers these are held in place by white 5200 and large washers. IF the 5200 lets go you lose your fastener into the stringer. Put some rags in there so if they drop they won't bounce off and disappear .They are stainless your magnetic tool won't help you here.
Clean up the area around your mounts and mark their original location with a marker.
Slacken and clean up your adjuster nuts. (PB blaster)
Crack the block fasteners, you'll want to split the arm from the mount later. The rear are held in the block with 2 17 mm bolts on each side. The front are held in place with 4 14mm on the water pump side and 6 and the fuel pump side (2 extra on fuel pump support bracket) (reverse ordination lift up to loosen)
Disconnect your drive and mark your coupler. If you have the I/2 bearing mod you may need to pull the nuts and bolts out of the split coupler to help clear the hull crossmember.
I did not need to disconnect the exhaust. You shouldn't need to lift the motor more than 3/4"when doing the rear. (TIP cut any long exhaust clamp bolts you might get snagged on. Every tiny bit of space helps.
Slacken the alternator and push inwards.(or remove).
CLEAN ALL s/s fasteners that hold your mounts in place!!!!!!! Mine were cruddy , rust, paint,crap. The threads need to be pristine . PB baster and a seal pick is what I started with ,that was taking forever (keep in mind you are holding your yoga position) . I switched up to paint remover and small wire bush and that did the trick. When your happy with the result use a nut to run up and down to test the thread won't bind just to be safe.
I was lucky and I hope you are to.
Take your air impact wrench with 14mm socket and whatever variety of extensions you need to spin that nut off without breaking the 5200 bond on the underside. IF YOU DIDN'T CLEAN YOUR THREAD THIS IS WERE YOU'D WISH YOU HAD. Be slow be careful, try not to disturb the fastener. When you pull the mount you will likely find a good amount of rust and crud that needs to be cleaned off (long handled scrapper, small wire brush etc.) The stringers are not particularly flat where to mounts go so a good amount shit gets under there over time. I put a smear of Lanocote on the underside of my mounts .
On reassembly I was able to retighten using the same method with the impact wrench without the need to hold the head on the underside.
If plan A does not work for you and the you will need to create some kind of one off tool to hold the fastener on the underside .The access hole is small ,tight and awkward, at best you will only have enough room to get on it.
Your new mounts should have an elongated slot this goes to the rear on all 4.
Use your port-a-power to support the engine ,on the rear I picked a spot on the trans just forward of the drive flange. On the front end I just slipped it under the edge of the sump best I could, just supported did not need to lift. Obviously just work on one at a time.
I sure hope this helps the next poor soul that takes this on. It's a dam good thing I love my boat!
Best of luck to you
Cheers Carl